It’s obviously very roughly finished, which isn’t particularly unusual. Moving on to other parts of the gun, we have the lockwork itself. Ruger uses a strut and coil spring system for their mainsprings, and I checked a reasonable sample of Ruger wheelies, none of which had bent struts.
It had a nice little bow in it, which means that when you pulled the trigger, the spring was dragging on the side of the strut in a way that is…less than ideal. Now, I’m not an engineer, but I was somewhat surprised to find that the strut was bent when I took it out of the gun. Pulling the trigger compresses the spring, blah blah blah guns happen.
The mainspring rides on this strut the round end of the strut goes into a small slot on the back of the hammer. Let’s first look at the mainspring strut, which is, as the kids say, “kind of important.” This was not a good idea for my sanity, as I was greeted with a carnival of horrors and engineering decisions that make basically no sense. Being familiar enough with Ruger and S&W revolvers to perform basic action work and armorer level tasks, I decided to pull the sideplate off the Taurus. When I first got the gun, the best way to describe the trigger pull was like pulling a rusty pipe over a field of gravel. This is about as close to the concept of “revolver, blue 6-shot” as you can get without being the preferable S&W Model 10 but what I wanted to do was really explain to shooters why if you’re looking for a defensive wheelgun, your search should proceed alphabetically, and never go further than the “S” section.
In order to create a fair test, I decided to buy, with actual cash money, a Taurus 82 revolver. I get accused of being a gun snob pretty frequently.
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